Water adds magic and life to a garden. Unfortunately,many people think adding water is beyond their ability.Water features needn’t be large or involved; a beautiful water garden  created in a shallow basin or container in less than an hour can give pleasure spring through fall. The only requirement for the water lily is a minimum of 6 hours of direct sun daily. If you don’t have that much sun, don’t despair, there are other plant choices.

Don’t be surprised if wildlife finds its way to your water garden. Birds will stop to drink, small frogs may take up residence. A tree frog laid eggs in my lily basin last year. Eggs hatched into tadpoles eventually leaving as small frogs in late July. As the water warms in spring, algae blooms will form as part of the natural seasonal cycle, the water will eventually becoming crystal clear. Insects and water bugs will appear as well as mosquito larvae. Mosquito “Dunk”s can be used to eliminate mosquito larvae but I wouldn’t  think of using them and altering the natural ecology that develops. If you look closely you’ll discover a hidden, miniature world beneath the lily pads.

From a design perspective, the water basin or container will become the focal point for that part of the garden and set a tone. If the garden has or you want it to have a more formal, man made feel, emphasize that with the container. Select a circular or square container – possibly a low, broad urn or one with classical details.  For a natural or more relaxed atmosphere, a wooden barrel or simulated natural stone basin will work well. It can also work in reverse should you already have a whimsical or bold container; you can design a garden around it.

Part of the beauty of a water basin or container is that it isn’t a fixed, permanent installation. If you’re not happy with what you’ve done or a new idea comes to mind, redesign and move things around. Create, experiment and enjoy!

For details read on.

Starting with the container itself;  many choices are available. All should be watertight and non-toxic. Deep containers 15″ or deeper with a suggested minimum diameter of 28″ make a good choice. A half whiskey barrel with or without a liner is about that size. It also has the considerable advantage of being able to remain outdoors year round full of water. For a more refined choice, good quality plastic reproduction carved stone or terracotta containers are great. many are difficult to distinguish form the real thing. These containers also have the advantage of being able to remain outdoors year round.

Shallow 8″ deep plastic reproduction basins with a minimum 28″ diameter are another great choice. If placed on a cantilevered deck, balcony or rooftop,  they have the added advantage of weighing much less when full of water than a deeper container.

Again, placement of the basin or container should ideally be considered prior to purchase. That way specifics of the site can be taken into consideration. Matters of scale, color, texture and style all help create a mood. Practically speaking, level the container and consider placing it on a base of flat stone or pea stone.

Plant the lily in a plastic mesh pot 7″x7″x3″ deep, designed for water lilies and sold through mail order pond supply companies. Plant in good mineral topsoil, not peat, containing no fertilizer or chemicals (insecticides or herbicides). Set the  hardy lily rhizome at a slight angle with the cut end deeper in the soil and the growing tip projecting about 3/4″ above the soil surface. Hug one side of the pot with the rhizome so that the growing tip is roughly centered in the pot. This will allow room for the lily to grow before it hits the side of the pot. Tropical water lilies have a corm not a rhizome and should be planted in the center of the pot with the crown set 3/4″ above the soil surface. Insert “Lilytabs” or other water lily fertilizer as per product directions at this point. Cover soil surface with 1/2″ of washed gravel or pea stone. Place the pot with lily on the bottom of the filled container. Aged water is best so fill the container with water several days prior to adding the lily if possible.

As for the varieties of water lilies to use; my choices would be Nymphaea x ‘Helvola’, a miniature hardy lily with 2″ mottled leaves and 1″-2″ soft yellow, scented flowers. Helvola can flower with as little as 3 hours of direct sunlight daily but the more light, the more flowers. Because Helvola is a hardy lily, it can be placed in the water garden in April in Connecticut. It should start blooming in June and continue until late September. If you want to save the plant and use it next year, remove it from the water garden in its pot before freezing and store over winter in a plastic bucket of water deep enough to cover the crown of the plant by 2 inches. Store, preferably in very dim light at 35 to 45 degrees F. such as in an unheated, attached  garage that won’t freeze. You could also store the potted plant out of water in a refrigerator over winter. Just check periodically to make sure the plant isn’t drying out. You don’t want growth. You want the plant cold and dormant but safe from freezing and rot which comes from mold. If you plan on forcing spring bulbs, an up-coming article here, you might consider purchasing a small, compact, 3.6 cubic foot refrigerator to be used for both the water lily and the bulbs rather than use the kitchen refrigerator.

Nymphaea x ‘Dauben’ , a tropical miniature water lily with light lavender blue flowers is my second choice. Flower and leaf size are slightly larger than Helvola. Dauben is also tolerant of lower light levels. Because Dauben is a tropical lily, don’t put it in the water garden until the threat of spring frosts has past – late May in Connecticut. It should flower from June through September. If you want to save Dauben for next year, you will need to put it in a heated aquarium in a sunny window over winter – or just buy a new plant the following year.

Water lilies should be re-potted every year to two years in spring to keep them growing and flowering strongly.

Come spring, I don’t empty and clean my lily basins. Soil accumulates at the base of the container over the years. One to two inches of accumulated soil is a good thing, adding nutrient for the water lilies. It also seems to lessen spring algae blooms possibly due to its bacteria levels. Simply remove dead leaves and debris and some of the water. Scoop out excess soil accumulation and let things settle a bit. In a day or two, wiggle the re-potted and/or fertilized water lily in its pot down into the accumulated soil layer, top off with fresh water and you’re set for the season.

In addition to water lilies, other plant choices could include:

Water Snowflake,  Nymphoides cristatum -  a semi-tropical plant which has the same cultural requirements as tropical waterlilies.

Water Hyacinth,  Eichornia crassipes -a tropical plant that floats on the water surface. Add about 1/2″ of topsoil to the container bottom so the roots which hang down from the plants can find nourishment, winter storage same as for tropical water lily

Water Sprite,  Ceratopteris thalictroides – a tropical floating fern for a shady basin, soil on the container bottom is optional, winter storage same as for tropical water lily

Azolla,  Azolla caroliniana  – a miniature floating plant for sun or shade, winter storage same as for tropical water lily

Water Lettuce,  Pistia stratiotes – a tropical floating plant for sun or shade, treat and store the same as water hyacinth

Don’t add fish to a shallow basin. It would be a hellish environment for them due to the high water temperatures in summer and accompanying low oxygen levels. They would also be vulnerable to predation from birds and animals and lastly, they would need to be brought indoors in winter. Though I don’t recommend it, if you absolutely have to, small goldfish could be put in a 15″ deep basin located in part shade but provide them with a cave of bricks or stones for protection, don’t add more than 3 and they will need to be brought indoors in October and not returned until May. They will eventually outgrow even the largest containers.

Another don’t – don’t use metal containers such as zink which look nice but can be toxic to wildlife.

By adding a miniature pump, if electricity is available (be certain to use a GFCI outlet), a whole new element of sound and motion can be gained. Keep in mind the small scale of your garden. A thin stream of water dripping into your basin from one to two feet above would be sufficient.

All items mentioned in this article can be obtained through William Tricker, Inc., Foster and Smith Aquatics and other mail order outlets as well as local garden centers and water garden suppliers.

Digging a new vegetable or flower bed can be a daunting task. Try raising that bed above existing grade. Not only will the job be easier but the method offers several advantages. Firstly, in areas of heavy, rocky or compacted soils, you don’t have to waste time or energy addressing them. Secondly, in areas of poor drainage, you will be planting above waterlogged soils. Thirdly, you add amended soil according to your preferred recipe. Fourthly, these raised beds can be protected from pests and wildlife. Lastly, soil in raised beds warms up faster in spring allowing earlier planting and faster growth.

How To:

Recommended sizes; 3′x5′, 3′x6′, 4′x6′   You want to be able to comfortably reach across the bed to plant, weed and tend your plants. Keep that in mind when deciding what size bed to construct.

Purchase pressure treated 2″x10″ boards, cut to size, stand on edge to make a 9-1/2″ deep bed, overlap short sides with long sides and nail or screw corners together with 16d, 3-1/2″ hot dip galvanized nails or Primaguard Ten 3-1/2″ hot galvanized exterior screws (or comparable), 3 per corner. You may want to pre-drill to avoid splitting. Level the rectangular frame of boards (on gently sloping ground, you may want to just follow the slope with your bed/beds).

Locate your bed/beds in as sunny a location as you can.

If you are planning to grow tulips for cutting and fear rodent damage, you might want to nail metal hardware fabric to the bottom of the wooden frame. For most other uses, I would skip this step.

Fill the bed/beds with screened topsoil or purchased bagged topsoil. Use a mineral soil and amend to desired texture with sharp, builder’s sand and peat-moss or compost. Soil-less mixes are not recommended. For most crops including annual cut flowers, a light, sandy loam with ample compost/organic matter added is the ideal. This soil mix will hold and release nutrients well,  remain friable, and retain moisture while shedding excess water.

Have additional soil on hand to top off beds after settling occurs. Aim to keep the soil level in the bed about an inch below the wooden frame.

Black plastic or mulch can be used to warm the beds or retain moisture and repress weeds respectively. Landscape fabric is not recommended.

After planting, supports for annual cut flowers can be constructed by attaching stakes to the wooden frame or just inserting them into the soil along the bed perimeter and making a grid by tying twine at 90 degree angles across the bed. Vegetable plants may require individual stakes or cages.

Individual beds may be netted over a simple frame of wire or wooden stakes to protect against animals if beds are not already located within a fenced area. Row covers will protect against insects. Secure both to 2″x10″ bed frame.

Raised beds can also be irrigated with a drip system.

There are several courses of action to repair winter storm damage to deciduous shrubs. All of the suggestions offered in an earlier blog to repair damage to evergreen shrubs apply here as well. The level of complexity involved in some of these methods may make sense when involving key deciduous specimens in a landscape or a formally trimmed deciduous hedge but if that is not the case,  it might make more sense to take the opportunity to rejuvenate damaged deciduous shrub.

The extent of rejuvenation would depend on the extent of damage.  This procedure involves removing most or all old wood with loppers or a pruning saw close to the ground leaving six to twelve inch stubs to re-sprout. All damaged wood should also be removed at this time. Younger wood (four years and younger) may be left alone or trimmed by one third.  If you don’t want the cuts to show, prune at the crotches. If you want a fuller, bushier plant, prune beyond the crotches leaving stubs from several inches to two feet long.

As buds break and growth resumes, you can top these new shoots removing the tips to encourage yet more branching. this method works on most deciduous flowering shrubs including lilac, roses, forsythia, spiraea, mock orange, azalea, burning bush, highbush blueberry and viburnum (and even many evergreen shrubs including azalea, boxwood, holly, rhododendron, yew, juniper and pyracantha).

Should too many new shoots develop, detracting from the natural form of the bush, remove some, flush with the branch from which they emerge.

Bushes can also be reshaped by driving stakes into the ground in locations you want branches to be and tying the closest branches to them. Check often to make certain the twine isn’t girdling the branches,  adjusting as necessary. Stakes may be removed when branches thicken sufficiently to hold the desired shape without additional support.

This is the time of year to start flower and vegetables seeds.  The need for sterile conditions requires that used pots be washed before reuse, a job I dislike. A simple and practical solution is to use 3 oz. plastic  bathroom cups. They come in packages of 100.  Punch three evenly spaced holes in the bottom rims of the cups prior to filling with sterile seed starting mix or potting soil. Water from below by placing the cups on plates or saucers.

Small seeds like snapdragon, begonia and flowering tobacco can be planted dozens of seeds per cup to later be pricked out and transplanted one per cup after they have grown true leaves. Larger seeds like marigolds, zinnias, asters and most vegetables can be planted one seed per cup and later removed from the cup and planted directly into the garden. Seedlings can be transplanted into larger plastic cups if plants outgrow the 3 oz. cups before weather allows outdoor planting.

Biodegradable paper cups in the same sizes and with holes punched through the bottoms can also be used but my experience with these has been that they decomposed before plants could be transplanted into the garden.

Don’t forget to harden off your seedlings if they were started and grown indoors by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions and sun before transplanting them into the garden. Start by moving them to a shaded, protected spot outside during the day and bringing them back inside on cool nights. Gradually expose them to more sun and outdoor temperatures over several days to a week. Also, don’t forget to remove the seedlings from the plastic cups before transplanting into the garden.

Nature’s timetable varies slightly from year to year. That requires the gardener to observe and use judgment. Shoots and buds emerge in spring at their own pace, not by the calender.  An attentive gardener will keep checking spring’s advance and act accordingly. Clean old leaves and debris as well as winter mulches before bulbs sprout to avoid damaging those emerging shoots. Similarly, prune deciduous trees and shrubs before tender shoots expand to avoid accidentally damaging them.

Conversely, don’t rush things. Soils that are waterlogged should not be worked until they dry some or you could destroy soil structure and compact them – a bad situation that could last through the summer. This is much more of a problem on clay and silt soils; less so on sandy soils.  Soil compaction could manifest itself as a concrete-like layer hindering both water absorption and root penetration or rock hard clods which are very difficult to break up making seeding or planting nearly impossible.

One fall, thinking I was doing something good, I spread a 6″ layer of maple leaves over the vegetable garden to be tilled in come spring. The aim was to increase soil organic matter. When spring came with its rains, it was “time” to till the soil. But the thick layer of un-decomposed leaves had absorbed water like a sponge and left the soil beneath saturated. I should have known better but I tilled anyway – it was “time to plant”. I made bricks of mud and leaves that baked hard in the sun. It wasn’t until late summer that the clods started to break down and dissolve. Nothing like learning by doing. Though I caused the mud with the layer of leaves, in some years this could happen naturally. Even without leaves,  heavy rains or a layer of  frost below the soil surface could cause the same conditions. Should conditions delay seeding and planting, don’t fret. It’s amazing how fast late seedings and plantings catch up with earlier ones, often surpassing them.

Spring also offers an opportunity to attack and eliminate major weed infestations. Hard to eliminate,  mat- forming or spreading weeds such as chickweed, clover, mugwort,  ground ivy, sheep sorrel or perennial grasses can be sprayed with herbicides (my choice is Roundup) with less threat to desirable plants. Most garden plants won’t have emerged much from tight crowns so there will be less desirable foliage to work around and you’ll have a better view of the plants you want to spray. Make certain you work on a calm, dry day. Spraying in cool weather will take longer to act so be patient. Completely out of control areas can be over-sprayed and cleared of all vegetation prior to replanting later in spring. Depending on the tenacity of the weeds present, you may need to spray twice.

After the snow and ice storms of this past winter, many evergreen shrubs and hedges are split with branches pinned to the ground. Don’t panic. Most evergreen shrubs have an amazing ability to regrow and recover. If the snow is light and powdery, consider brushing it off the shrubs. If the snow is wet and heavy or the shrubs are iced over, it’s probably better to just let it melt off rather than try to remove it. After thaw, take action.

Prune out all broken branches. That said, it is sometimes possible to make a splint for branches too critical to remove for aesthetic reasons. The branches you want to save would need to be fresh, the bark alive and not dessicated. If they are, simply make a splint by sandwiching the broken branch between two or three wooden stakes and binding with plastic ribbon or even plastic zip ties. It is very important to periodically check the splint and branch for rot and binding as the branch grows. It may be necessary to re-tie the splint if the plastic ribbon becomes brittle and cracks or loosen the zip ties if they start cutting into growing branches. You may have to keep the splint in place for one to two years depending on the severity of the wound and branch size.

For branches that have spread and split in the crotches, do the following:

If the wound is fresh and the bark still alive, bind the two sides together with twine or plastec ribbon in a figure “8″ being careful not to wrap completely around the branches which could girdle them.

If the wound is old and the split bark has dried, lightly shave the two sides of the split so that when you pull them together, freshly trimmed bark makes contact when the two sides are pulled together. Bind the two sides together with twine as above.

It is also possible to leave the split and let both sides heal as is. This may or may not work based on the extent of damage but it’s worth a try. You can always prune above the split if the branches beyond the split ultimately die.

You may need to attach these tied branches to a stake driven into the ground for additional support. Ties and stakes will probably be required for one to two years.

Once all major damaged branches have been repaired or removed, prune, shear, trim the bush or hedge back into its original shape. Most evergreen shrubs are quite capable of quickly re-sprouting new growth after severe damage and looking respectable again within one year.

In extreme cases, bushes may die nearly to the ground. This will become apparent as the weather warms and foliage looks progressively freeze dried, eventually turning brown. Before digging out and completely removing them, try pruning to 12″ stubs. If the roots are still alive, growth very often sprouts from these stubs as well as the plant base. Azaleas, rhododendron, Ilex, and boxwood often regrow into  beautiful new bushes in two to three years. If the plants are in fact completely dead to the roots and don’t re-sprout, dig them out and dispose of them but it’s always worth waiting.

Toward the end of January, any sign of spring is a welcome thing. A simple “fix” is achieved by forcing Forsythia. A shrub found on many if not most properties; beginning in January, numerous waves of branches can be forced into bloom until the shrubs flower naturally out of doors. Cultivated, named selections such as F. x  ‘Lynwood Gold’ have larger and more deeply colored flowers but any variety will work.

Simply cut branches – the long, whippy ones look  best – and place them in a vase at room temperature in a bright spot. If the branches are thick, say 1/2″ or thicker, cut a slit 2″ to 3″ up the stem to aid in water absorption. For the same reason, cut the stem ends at a slant.

Branches taken in January might take two to three weeks to flower depending on house temperature. As spring advances, less time will be needed to bring the branches into bloom. By March, flowers may open in as little as one week.

Many other spring flowering shrubs can be forced as well, start with Forsythia for guaranteed success then try Japanese Quince and Ornamental Cherry branches.

Very early in the new season, often before winter is over, a number of small spring flowers bloom, sometimes through the snow.

Because of their small stature, these flowers are easily overlooked. The trick is to use them in areas that can be seen up close at a time of year when most people don’t venture far into the garden. This could include beds close to the house which are visible from windows or beds bordering walks and patios. House entrances and paths from house to garage are also great spots . If you do plant near a walk or drive, try not to pile large amounts of snow over the dormant flowers – not because it will hurt them – but because late thaws will delay flowering.

Some varieties of bulbs to consider:

Snow Drops, Galanthus nivalis, are probably the earliest, in mild winters flowering in February in New Haven County, Connecticut.

These plants can flower for over a month in years free of early warm spells. There are a number of species and cultivars, some larger, some smaller, most under 6″ tall, some double, all beautiful. They multiply

by seeding so don’t remove the grape-like clusters of seed heads until they ripen and split,

dropping their seeds if you want them to spread. Digging, dividing and replanting during or immediately after flowering is another method of propagating – one that will produce exact clones of their parents. In all cases,

don’t remove the foliage until it ripens and yellows. That will ensure nourishment for next year’s flowers. After the foliage dies, the plant will go dormant until next winter/spring. They perfer rich, moist soil in sun to part shade. Planting in the shade of deciduous trees and shrubs is fine since these plants are leafless while the Snow Drops are actively growing. They have few if any pests which is a tremendous plus.

Crocus are another beautiful early spring flower. Again, there are a host of species and cultivars.Cultural conditions are the same as for Snowdrops with one important exception, mice, birds, squirrels, rabbits deer and various other animals eat both the flowers as well as the corms. That said, try them. They are beautiful and often make large colonies, something that could happen naturally over time if they are happy with their location. It’s also worth getting down on your knees and smelling the flowers.

Siberian Squills, Scilla siberica with it’s brilliant blue flowers, is another great bulb with few if any pests, cultural conditions are similar to Snow Drops. They can naturalize forming large colonies which can work well in lawns and meadows but don’t apply herbicides! Also, you’ll need to postpone mowing until seed heads ripen or raise the cutting height.

Glory of the Snow, Chionodoxa species, are similar to Siberian Squill with a lavender-blue flower. The two can be used together or in place of one another.

Grape Hyacinth, Muscari species are still another bulb similar to Siberian Squills and Glory of the Snow but with a later bloom date.

Add some to extend flowering. Cultural conditions are the same as the foregoing.

Violas are the one non-bulbous plant mentioned here. A biennial, they germinate in late summer, start flowering in fall and continue flowering sporadically throughout a mild winter. Strong growth resumes in spring and continues until warm weather causes the plants to stretch and flower size to decrease. They should be discarded at this point but will have left thousands of seeds in the soil to repeat the cycle again next fall.

You will have to recognize the seedlings and not pull or kill them. They prefer rich soil in sun to part shade and come in a variety of colors. Plants and seed can be purchased in spring.

All of the bulbs mentioned here are available in garden centers, through mail order catalogs or from internet sources late summer through early fall. Finding flowers in the garden February through April is a pleasure well worth the small effort to acquire and plant them.   

Hi, I am Douglas S. Kycia, Landscape Architect. Welcome to my new blog where I will share seasonal ideas for your landscape!

It’s hard to overstate the importance of involving a landscape architect early in the site planning process.
Whether siting buildings or drives with respect to orientation and elevation; so much of the future
site development is controlled by those initial decisions. Too often opportunities are lost or worse,
expensive corrective measures are necessary to mitigate fundamental mistakes; expensive retaining
walls, stairs, drainage structures, wet basements, awkward grade changes, buildings that don’t relate to
the landscape.

The design of building and landscape should go hand in hand. Buildings should relate to grades and the
lay of the land. Plantings reinforce that relationship further, providing sun, shade, breezes or shelter,
capturing and framing views, creating outdoor spaces that directly relate to interior spaces.

Choosing details of pavement or plant species or color though important, are truly secondary to
fundamental site planning issues. Unfortunately though, all too often, this is when the landscape
architect is called in. At this point, much of the controlling issues have already been determined and
must be reacted to. In the worst of these cases, no amount of cosmetics can save the situation.